Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Tuesday April 19 On the Road to Kilkenny


Cynthia ingeniously positions our luggage and all 6 of us (plus herself) into her roomy vehicle and drives us to our rental car where EuropeCar double charges us for insurance coverage (AmEx doesn't cover Ireland or Italy we discover). In return they offer an upgrade to an automatic rather than the manual drive we have reserved. Considering the learning curve that will be “left side of the road driving from the right side of the vehicle” we make the deal. 
We brunch at the Avoca cafeteria on the grounds of Malahide castle. Gorgeous food in beautiful surroundings. It’s here that we part ways with Cynthia and say au revoir to Gael. (Sniff)

Leaving Deepwell

And the road trip begins.

On Nick’s recommendation we take the Sally Gap through the Wicklow Mountains heading south towards Glendalough. The road narrows from freeway to two-lane to narrow winding blacktop. The centerline disappears and the road winds and twists and gains elevation. The views are stunning. We are the only car save for a moto that comes and goes quickly. Even the sheep, which were everywhere, disappear. The landscape is treeless, and damp. A stream dances along beside the road then suddenly vanishes momentarily to re-emerge as the Glenmacnass Waterfall. The water throws itself wantonly over the valley edge as it splits into fingers that seek the path of least resistance for 600 feet or so and then pulls itself together, becomes a stream again and primly wanders off. We follow the water down into the valley where the sheep are once again assembled, many with lambs in this springtime season. (Even one baa baa black sheep)
We encounter groups of hikers as we descend, one burly group of three dressed all in camo.

The Sally Gap
Glendalough, the valley of two lakes is home to an ancient (Medieval) monastic settlement founded by St Kevin. So ancient that Vikings once raided here.
The visitor’s center runs a video to give us background and history. A model of what the village looked like, circa 6th century is on display. There’s also a photo of Michelle Obama and her girls who visited in 2013.
We walk through what remains of a grand gateway and follow the path that wanders through the site and marvel at the construction of stone. The round tower stands 30 meters high. How did they do that...really? The empty tower windows, at various heights, are being used today by busy birds with beaks brimful of nesting materials. There must be a condo complex of nests inside based on the steady stream of avian activity. (Tis spring!)
Sentinel grave markers atilt after years of standing tall dominate the churchyard. St Kevin’s church, again built entirely of stone, looks like it took tedious work to construct with only a small interior space to compensate for what must have been months (and months) of toil.
The beautiful valley is striking in its natural beauty. We take time to reflect on what transpired here and the people who called it home so many centuries ago.

The Grand Gateway

The Round Tower







Walking the Labyrinth at Glendalough
Lodging tonight is at ButlerCourt in Kilkenny. We’re greeted in the courtyard by Bo, the official dog of Butler Court, (his predecessor was Bob). 


Bo and Friend
The B&B is located on the site of the former carriage house and stable yard of Kilkenny Castle. From here we can walk the town. We enjoy dinner at the Italian Trattoria and a chat with the chef. He’s proud of his Bolognese, as he should be, but also eager to fill us in on his recent trip to Vegas.

KC and the kids look for an ice cream shop for dessert and Jim and I take a stroll in the dark along the river Nore beneath the castle walls. 

No comments:

Post a Comment