Saturday, April 23 The Dingle Peninsula

Another day, another birthday to celebrate. Bro-bro turns 60-something.

We wake to sweeping blue-water views of Dingle Bay with cows grazing on the emerald lawn beside the water. Even in the early morning the harbor is busy. Fishing boats, kayaks, pleasure craft going purposefully to and fro. Pastoral, peaceful, Irish beauty.

Blasket Island beckons with a crooked finger, but we choose to forego the ferry trip and daylong excursion in favor of spending this glorious sunny day on the Dingle Peninsula loop.

Maggie starts us off with a bountiful breakfast. She presents a fruit plate

that’s a work of art. “It takes some cuttin’” she says. Her yogurt parfait is also a tasty thing of beauty.

The peninsula is the westernmost tip of Ireland. The saying goes that the next parish west is Boston. It’s ten miles across the headland and about 30 miles from Dingle to Dingle. A short drive in theory, but it will take us pretty much the whole day to admire the views and stop in at the places of interest.

Once on the road we can look east and see the Ring of Kerry. Also in view are the Skelligs: Michael and his little brother. Inland are bottle green pastures broken into squares by stone fences laid out on the flank of Mount Eagle. And hundreds of sheep. The road winds atop the cliffs yet when we look down there are cows grazing on the steep hillsides. Two legs shorter than the others.

We take a short hike uphill to a grouping of beehive huts. They are constructed of stone, no mortar of course. A stone wall runs around the ancient community and we try to picture the life that was led here. Home, safety, and green fields for livestock. Basic needs met.

A stream runs across the road. A ford built into the roadway instead of bothering with a bridge. We splash through. Fun.

Another stop at Slea Head because: The View. The pullout sits atop a rocky outcrop with waves breaking all around. Across the road is a shrine of Jesus on the cross set into a niche of stone inches from the blacktop. The simple white figures stand out starkly against the black-gray background.

The Great Blasket Centre commemorates the challenging life of the fishermen and farmers of The Great Blasket Island. The building is designed to blend in with the surrounding landscape. One long corridor with display rooms on either side leads purposefully to a wall of windows looking out towards the islands, (there are 6). 

View of the Blaskets

We watch the video, the kids try the interactive Gaelic exhibit and we gain a superficial understanding of the islanders’ experience. In short, life was hard but they seemed to love their sequestered existence. There are poignant quotations from those forced to leave because of economic conditions. The island was abandoned in the 1950’s.

Interactive Gaelic Exhibit

Peig Sayers a traditional Irish storyteller came to the island when she married. Her stories were recorded and published through the work of Robin Flower of the British Museum. Her book was required reading for Irish students for many years. Nick, our host in Dublin, remembers it with a groan and an eye-roll.

Wooden currach boats were used by the Islanders to row their produce and livestock to shore for sale. The frame is made of wood with a canvas cover painted with tar. When sheep were transported their feet were tied together and they were placed in the boat upside down so their hooves wouldn’t pierce the canvas.

Currach Boat Under Construction

“Then the cliff breaks to the sea, and three miles out lie the islands. They are the peaks of hills sundered from their mainland brothers and seen thus from above you wouldst think them sea monsters of an antique world languidly lifting time worn backs above the restless and transitory waves” Robin Flower

We stop at Louis Mulcahy Pottery and though the prolific potter’s products don’t catch our eye we find a delightful café just right for lunch on the top floor and even better a telescope trained on the set for the next episode of Star Wars being built on a nearby cliffside. Captivating.

Star Wars Under Construction
(better seen through the telescope)

We complete the loop and land back in Dingle town fully appreciative of the beauty of Ireland.

Dinner at the Chart House to celebrate Bro-bro’s birthday. A perfect happenstance to be in the spot where his great-great-great grandfather, Thomas, was born on this his own special day. Rack of lamb and a candle in the ice cream, but best of all is family around the table.

Birthday Presents of Cap and Scarf

Excellent Birthday Celebration 

Walking Home Along Dingle Harbor