Céad Mile Fáilte: Friday April 22, The Ring of Kerry

After another ample Irish breakfast we set out to drive the Ring of Kerry, (AKA the Iveragh Peninsula).

We don’t get far until we have to stop for a herd of cows crossing the lane. On to greener pastures? Sheep, too, wander wherever they want to wander. Many of them are spray painted with a graffiti-like stripe. Each color must have a special meaning to the farmer, for us, it just adds to the charming atmosphere.

The Ring is a top tourist destination in The Republic of Ireland. We feel extremely fortunate to be here before sightseeing season launches in earnest. We’ve heard stories about what it’s like to meet an on-coming bus on a narrow road. Buses have the right of way and cars must move over, sometimes into the shrubbery. During high season the buses follow one another successively along this route. Today we see one bus, and it’s parked.

We head up and over Moll’s Gap where the narrow road winds up the hilly route like a spiral staircase then slithers down the other side. It’s bleak and beautiful. We are the only vehicle.

Moll's Gap

Driver and His Navigator

Suddenly, in the middle of seemingly nowhere we spot an Avoca nestled on a rocky ridge and screech to a stop. Inside we purchase snacks and souvenirs. KC and I choose mohair throws from the numerous table displays for our couches back home The Avoca Mill was founded in 1723 adjacent to the largest copper mine in Europe. The mill ground corn and hand-wove fabric for the miners. It was eventually purchased by the Pratt family who built it into a thriving business. Hand weaving is still utilized, but power looms are also used to keep up with the demand for Avoca’s beautiful products.

An arrow points towards The Ring of Kerry. The road hugs the coastline along the peninsula. The natural beauty is magnificent but in addition there are manmade features to see.

Just past the village of Sneem is the turnoff for the Staigue Ring Fort. We travel the hedge-lined lane for a couple of miles until the road dead-ends. There’s a trail and a gate, where a sign beside a small metal box asks for a minor donation for preservation efforts. No one is watching, but we are happy to comply. The trail leads to the isolated remains of a prehistoric ring fort. The 12-foot thick walls are constructed of stones without mortar. They rise to a height of around 25 feet. We read that a structure like this would take 100 men six months to build. Theories are the forts were built for protection from enemies and/or to protect livestock from thieves. We explore the manmade caverns built into the walls and try to intuit the "who and why" of this desolate spot.

Staigue Ring Fort

We feast our eyes on rocky coves and beaches until we leave the main route once again, this time for Derrynane House, now a museum, the surrounding grounds, a national park. This is the home of Daniel O’Connell, (1775-1847), known as The Great Liberator. He is known for using pacifism to gain religious emancipation for Catholics. His methods inspired Martin Luther King and Ghandi.

When we arrive, there is a tour bus parked in the courtyard. Inside, we tour the house while a group of German tourists watch the background video. When we come out of the theater, having viewed the English version of the film, the Germans have moved on and we have the place to ourselves.

In 1828 O’Connell was elected a Member of Parliament but the law banned Catholics from serving unless they took the Oath of Supremacy, and he didn’t take his seat. His re-election the following year forced the British Parliament to overturn its anti-Catholic legislation in what is known as the Catholic Emancipation Act of 1829. Thus he became “The Great Liberator”. He hoped this accomplishment would eventually lead to Home Rule.

After a political skirmish he was challenged to a duel. He attempted to end the altercation by shooting his opponent in the thigh, but the man died anyway. O’Connell wore a black glove from then on to remind himself that he had taken a life. His dueling pistol and the glove are on display.

When he died (on a pilgrimage to Italy) his heart was buried in Rome and his body in Ireland.

The grounds include a chapel and a coach house for the ornate carriage O’Connell rode in only once. It was built by the citizens of Dublin as a triumphant conveyance that drove him through the streets after he was released from prison, (the British imprisoned him on fraudulent charges). It was used again, empty to lead his funeral cortege.

Chapel at Derrynane

O'Connell's Carriage

Back on the coastal road, we enjoy the views. Wistfully we gaze in the direction of the Skellig Michael. Research and a verifying email nullify our hopes of taking a boat trip out to the island for some exploratory hiking. The excursions won’t start for another month.

We take a wrong turn and end up going backwards along the Skellig Ring, but no matter it’s beautiful from any direction. The road is too narrow for buses, which means it is very narrow. It hugs the coastal cliffs offering heart-stopping scenery. We stop for lunch at The Moorings in Portmagee a tiny town on a bay, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean.

And soon we are back where we started, in Castlemaine. It's a loop after all.

Nearing Dingle we stop to walk on Inch Beach. Lots of shells and miles of sand. We take a peek into Sammy’s restaurant. The walls are hung with posters for Ryan’s Daughter. The 1970’s era movie was filmed here and it’s still a point of pride, evidently.

Inch Beach

Our lodging for the next two nights is Emlagh Lodge in Dingle. Maggie, the quirky but awesome proprietor isn’t there to let us in because she’s participating in the Dingle Running and Fitness Festival. We park the car, go through her garden gate and follow the path along Dingle Harbor. In ten minutes we are in the heart of town. We find a pub, order a beer, and watch the runners straggle by. When we’ve done a little exploring in the shops and ice cream parlors and we’re pretty certain the race is over we reverse direction and head for our lodge.