Thursday April 21 On to Castlemaine

Up early to a bountiful Irish Breakfast. Made to our specifications. Then out the door to visit the 17^th century Charles Fort.

Built right on the water, the fort has a commanding view of Kinsale Harbor and James Fort on the opposing shore. The fortifications are wide walls filled in with dirt and sod in hopes of stopping a hurtling cannonball. Sloping earthen embankments surrounding the walls are built at an angle that forced cannon to fire upwards rather than in a direct path. Clever.

This is a star fort meaning that the walls jut out in a star pattern allowing defenders to use the triangular shapes to shoot at enemies coming close to the bulwarks.

Diagram of the Star Fort

It’s a brisk and breezy morning but we walk the walls, exploring guardhouses and savoring views from the ramparts.

We hustle back to town to meet Don Herlihy of “Don and Barry’s Kinsale Historic Stroll” at 11:15. He walks a group of us around and about for an hour and a half filling us in on the stories of times gone by in Kinsale.

Don Herlihy

The great harbor was the key to economic success for this little village. The River Bandon flows into the sea at Kinsale harbor. When the tide sweeps in it rushes along the river for 10 miles allowing ships to ride the tide up river. When the tide goes out the ships ride the tide back to harbor. This enabled them to easily cover territory without sail or oars. Ships setting out on long voyages made Kinsale their last stop for provisions and “vittaling” boosting the economy.

Don relates how the bubonic plague was spread through contact with an infected flea or rodent or another infected person versus the pneumonic plague, which was spread through the air. People thought that nutmeg and cinnamon could protect them from plague and the spices became extremely valuable. Those fleas and rodents most likely hitched a ride from Asia on a sailing ship.

We learn about how to preserve eggs by buttering their shells. We see where pigs found roaming the streets were impounded (not an impound lot where you’d claim your car if it got “clamped”).

The night watchman made his rounds and woke people every two hours or so to let them know which way the wind was blowing. They could sleep if the wind was blowing away from shore because the Viking sailing ships couldn’t land.

As Don describes the ins and outs of Kinsale he looks over at Anna and asks “little French girl are you bored?” “Yes” she replies. He tries to mitigate his failure by offering her his demonstration nutmeg. She accepts.

KC and the kids do a little pre-emptive birthday shopping for Bro-Bro.

For lunch we enjoy the best fish and chips EVER.

On our way out of town we stop at the harbor viewpoint for a last grand view. Don has told us of the "Tidy Towns" competition in Ireland. Kinsale was a winner.

We stay tonight at Murphy’s Farmhouse in Castlemaine. We were promised a barnful of cows and we are not disappointed. What we didn’t count on was the odeur d’bovine that permeates the place.

Murphy's Farmhouse

Dinner is at Alma’s in Milltown for pizza and milkshakes where we learn that Prince has died.